A traveler’s diary on the beautiful, baffling, 10-out-of-10 country that will break you and remake you in the image of a 7-Eleven egg sandwich.

Let's Be Honest: I Was Not Prepared

Look, I'm a traveler. I’m not new to this. I’m the guy who can find a decent meal in a 4 AM bus station in the Balkans. I can sleep on a cargo train. I’m resilient.

And Japan broke me in the first 10 minutes.

You land at Narita (or Haneda, if you’re smart), and you step out into what is, objectively, the most polite, efficient, and clean version of human civilization. Everything works. The trains are on time to the second. People bow to you. The toilets bow to you.

And I felt like a big, dumb, clumsy baby.

Why? Because for all its futuristic, Blade Runner-level cityscapes, Japan has one secret, baffling, terrifying quirk:

It is a digital black hole.

I’m talking about connectivity. I stepped off that plane, my phone in my hand, ready to fire up Google Maps and find my hotel. And I was met with... nothing. The "Wall of Silence." No signal.

"Fine," I thought. "I'll just hop on the airport's free Wi-Fi."

This is the first test Japan gives you, and it’s a cruel one. The "free" Wi-Fi requires you to sign up, give them your email, sacrifice your first-born, and then it works... for 15 minutes. Long enough for you to almost load the train schedule before it kicks you off.

This is the central paradox of Japan: You are in the most high-tech place on Earth, and you will spend half your trip hunting for a signal like you're trying to find water in the desert.

The Great (and Awful) Pocket Wi-Fi Lie

So, you do what everyone used to do. You follow the signs to one of the dozen "Pocket Wi-Fi" rental counters.

You wait in a line of equally bewildered, sweaty tourists. You hand over your passport. You get a little plastic brick (another thing to carry), a charger (another thing to charge), and a prepaid envelope (another thing to not lose).

And for the next 10 days, your life is ruled by this brick.

• You are a "Wi-Fi herder." Your friends all huddle around you, chanting "What's the password? Are you on?"
• Its battery life is a constant source of anxiety. You watch the little green light blink to orange, and you feel real panic.
• You leave it at the hotel one day. You realize this halfway through your 45-minute subway ride. The day is now ruined.

I am not exaggerating when I say that connectivity is the single highest-stress part of traveling in Japan. Because without it, you are lost.

Shinjuku Station Is Not a Building, It's a Final Boss

"I'll just use the signs," you say. "I'm smart."

Oh, you sweet, innocent child. Let me introduce you to Shinjuku Station.

This isn't a train station. It's a small, subterranean city-state with its own ecosystem, 200 exits, and, I'm convinced, a minotaur at its center.

There are seven different, privately-owned train lines. You have the JR line, the Toei Oedo line, the Keio line, the Odakyu line... and none of them talk to each other. Your JR pass doesn't work on the Toei line. Your "Tokyo Metro" ticket is useless on the Keio line.

You will stand in front of a ticket machine, a symphony of flashing lights and Japanese characters, and you will just... short-circuit. You will feel true, existential despair. And just when you're about to cry, a spotlessly-uniformed attendant will materialize, bow, and wordlessly point you in the right direction.

This is the rhythm of Japan: Bafflement, despair, rescue, relief. Repeat.

But Then... The 7-Eleven Egg Sandwich

You're stressed. You're lost. You're "hangry." You stumble into the first place you see. It's a 7-Eleven.

"Great," you think. "A sad, stale hot dog."

And you walk in, and it’s... glorious. The fluorescent lights are like a choir of angels. You walk to the chilled section. You find the tamago sando—the egg salad sandwich.

It's 200 yen (like, $1.50). You buy it. You take a bite.

The bread is a cloud. The egg salad is creamy, savory, and perfect. It is the single greatest thing you have ever eaten from a convenience store. It is better than 90% of the "artisanal" food you've eaten at home.

This is the other side of Japan. The part that saves you. The konbini (convenience store) food is a culinary miracle. The onigiri (rice balls). The karaage (fried chicken). The weird-but-amazing jellies. This is where you'll eat half your meals, and you won't even be mad.

My Second Trip: The "Smug" Traveler Secret

I went back to Japan a year later. And I wasn't going to be that guy. I wasn't going to be the "Wi-Fi brick" guy. I wasn't going to be the "crying in Shinjuku Station" guy.

I was going to be the "smug, prepared, knows-what's-up" guy.

Here's my secret: I sorted out my phone before I left.

I got a Japan travel eSIM from King Sims. I know, it sounds like an ad, but this is just... the truth. It's the one "hack" that actually works.

I bought it online. I installed it on my phone at home.

The moment my plane's wheels touched the tarmac at Narita, I turned on my phone.

And... ping.

I had data. Instantly.

I didn't talk to anyone. I didn't wait in a line. I didn't rent a brick.

I breezed past the frantic, huddled masses at the pocket Wi-Fi counter. I felt like a king. I opened Google Maps. I found the exact train I needed. I checked the platform number. I used my Suica card (put it on your iPhone, by the way) to tap through the gate.

I was on the Narita Express, heading into the city, while everyone else was still trying to figure out which rental plan to get.

The entire trip was different.

• In Shinjuku: I just pulled out my phone and said "Take me to exit C4." Done.
• At the restaurant: The menu was all Japanese. I opened my Google Translate app, pointed my camera at it, and it instantly translated everything. I knew exactly what I was ordering.
• On the street: I could check train times, find the best ramen, and message my friends, all without thinking about a stupid, dying battery brick.

It’s the one thing that turns Japan from a "beautiful, stressful puzzle" into just "beautiful."

You Will Go, You Will Be Confused, You Will Love It

Japan is not a "relaxing" vacation. It's an active one. You are a participant.

It’s a country that runs on a million unwritten rules of etiquette that you will break. But it's also the safest, cleanest, most fascinating place I've ever been. The people are endlessly kind, even when you're the big, dumb baby asking where the train is.

You'll see a 1,000-year-old temple sitting next to a 7-story arcade. You'll eat a Michelin-star meal and follow it up with a 7-Eleven sandwich. You'll bow 50 times a day.

It's the best. It's weird. It's perfect.

Just, for the love of all that is holy, sort your phone out before you go. Don't be the guy in the Wi-Fi line.